I too have had lithium batteries dead or almost dead right out of the package. Something to keep in mind is that lithium batteries, unlike other types of batteries, maintain a nearly constant voltage until they go dead. That makes assessing them with a voltmeter unreliable.

If 1.5 volts in a lithium batt is nearly dead, why don't they function as well as an alky with 1.5 v? No matter, somewhere in my house something can use that lithium. Just not my Fenix in the wilderness. Those lithium electrons should be shot! Edit: found the product package from Dec 2013. The product rag says OK for NiMH or Alkalines, not OK for Lithiums. My bad. Other info: Short battery life relative to Black Diamond Spot. LD01: uses 1 AAA battery: 27 hr @3 Lumens, 3 hr @ 26 Lumens, 1.5 hr @72 lumens. BD Spot: uses 3 AAA batteries: 200 hr @4 Lumens, 50 hr @200 lumens.

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fenix sometimes does not put "lithium" on lights that can run lithiums the LD01 should take lithiums … http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/fenix_ld01.htm Dear Customer, I'm Nicole from Fenix in China. The lithium batteries can be used in the LD01. Thanks and regards, Nicole Fenixlight Limited (P)0086-400-8866093 (F)0086-755-29631181 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?347141-Batteries-for-Fenix-LD01-R4 as others have said try a fresh lithium cell ;)

when you measure with meter, there's no current on it when you put battery in a device, it draws current which makes the voltage go down 1.5 V Alkaline – voltage will drop only a bit 1.5 V discharged Lithium – voltage will drop more, to unusable level

I've got a couple of similar AA Fenix lights. I gave up on alkaline batteries long ago due to leakage and dependability at lower temps. I've never experienced anything like you're describing. Any chance of putting that batter on a multi-meter and checking it's voltage? I wonder if it's defective somehow…

“But when they go, they usually go from working to zero light all at once.” Yea, that’s the drawback of step-up converters. The only one’s that don’t do that are the passive ones that are size and heat hogs. These are just three batteries in series with the resistor in series with the LED. Sometimes there is no resistor. These will always light, even when cold or the voltage is low. They will give you several hours more light than a step-up regulator, howbeit MUCH dimmer. “Primary light source will likely be the Black Diamond Spot for its long battery life (are those numbers real?).” No the 130 lumens won’t last for 50 hours. It starts off that bright. In a few minutes it starts dimming; probably 50% gone in 30 minutes. Maybe your eyes won’t notice it as your pupils naturally get bigger with decreasing light. But it won’t be bright and then suddenly go off as with lithiums with step-up regulator (flashlights). Me— I just like the single-cell zebra light. I like the constant brightness. When the battery dies, it’s easy to change the battery. I know when the battery is going to die because it won’t switch from medium to high. These lights that take 3 cells are a hassle to change and where can you buy battery 3-packs? Annoyance. -Barry -May everyone see the lite.

I had the Eveready Lithium Ultimates on my hike. The misbehaving one just gives me two brightness levels now, which wouldn't offend as long as I had at least the medium brightness. Not turning on at all, though, crossed the line, especially for having been used minimally (under 30 min per day at the lowest brightness level) less than a week. For fear of leaving behind gear, I couldn't do much but wait for twilight and dawn. I may relegate the LD01 (alkaline battery!) to backup light source. Primary light source will likely be the Black Diamond Spot for its long battery life (are those numbers real?).

I tested the lithium batt on an analog meter (the needle and dial)–1.5 volts. would a digital meter show me any new tricks? Strange things happen. What could be different about lithium electrons vs. alkaline electrons? I just know the alkaline batteries returned all three intensities, including the brightest, to the light.

I used a Fenix LD01 on the 2000 miles I hiked this year. AAA alkaline batteries seemed to work just fine. For the last leg of my hike, I replaced the AAA alkaline with a AAA lithium to drop a few grams and get longer service life from each battery. The last morning out, the light wouldn't turn on, despite being fresh (a check at home later revealed >1.5 volts). Strangely, it worked alright once I arrived home letting me see two levels of brightness, but once I switched back to alkaline, all three light intensities returned, including one brighter than the brightest with the lithium battery. That brings back to the forefront, the aphorisms, "Better is the enemy of good" and "Good is good enough." :*)

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Flashlights definitely may not like lithium batteries at all. I used lithium batteries in my Petzl headlamp when I was thru-hiking the AT and they would die really quickly. A lot of other people were having the same experience. I even had a set die when I got off the trail for a few days. I hadn't even used the batteries yet and they died in my pack. I talked to a Petzl rep when I got home (I worked in an outdoor store) and he confirmed that they couldn't handle lithiums. In fact, the packages at the time suggested using alkaline. They can use lithium now. My Maglite also doesn't like lithiums. It gets awfully hot and the batteries die sooner, unfortunately.

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I would suggest Batteries in a Portable World, 3rd Edition. Buchman. Very good science, something the world needs more of. Art

I measured an unused AAA Lithium – 1.84 Volts Yeah, 1.5 volts is mostly dead Some devices don't like the higher voltage of lithium, can die When you measure with a volt meter, it draws 0 current. In a device that draws current, the voltage can drop, especially if the battery is mostly discharged Analog and digital meters both work fine But, this is the 21st century, time to ditch that analog meter. Do you still have any analog clocks? Or CRT tube TV? (I am watching a CRT TV, too lazy to replace, still works sort of, too heavy to haul away)

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Try one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-BAT-100-Battery-Tester/dp/B005G7SBTY/ref=lp_15707371_1_10/180-6059683-1648919?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1446077625&sr=1-10 Works for most small batteries, including 9 V. Eveready Lithium Ultimates, both AA and AAA, have worked well for me on Fenix, Snow Peak, and Remington headlamps. But when they go, they usually go from working to zero light all at once. Back up batteries must be carried, and the lamp must be able to load them easily in the dark (Fenix). Wish there were more headlamps that use one AA battery that loads easily. For other than Fenix, I have to carry a button light in the daypack in case I get caught in the dark, and it is still a hassle. One AA is also much cheaper than one AAA at Walmart, and lasts longer than two AAAs. The lithiums function not only longer, but much better than Alkalines in cold weather. Documented by articles in 'Consumer Reports.' The OP's Fenix LD01 is apparently an exception. Still another thing to check for when buying.

for short hikes, I use rechargable in my gps. Lithium for longer hikes. this past week, two new, right out of a new box of Eveready Ultimate batteries and they were dead in about 2 hours of a 4 day hike. usually fresh lithium last me 4-5 days. Personally, the most reliable batteries are rechargable NiMh, but they are heavy.

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"If 1.5 volts in a lithium batt is nearly dead, why don't they function as well as an alky with 1.5 v? " Voltage alone is not what powered your head lamp (or anything for that matter). If you touch a door nob after walking barefoot on the carpet you might get a jolt of static electricity with 100 volts. However, there is no current and you can't power your head lamp with that. Power = Voltage x Current My guess is your lithium batter is almost dead, and doesn't have any "juice" left when under load. Therefore current (amps) = close to nothing so your power is nothing. Also as someone else mentioned your voltage in almost all batteries drop when under load. All batteries should read well over 1.5 V when fully charged, and then drop down closer to 1.5 when under load. Your 12 Volt car battery is similar. A good condition car battery is north of 14 volts with no load on it.

"If 1.5 volts in a lithium batt is nearly dead, why don't they function as well as an alky with 1.5 v?" Probably has something to do with that "nearly dead" part. Lithiums have a higher nominal voltage than alkaline, so if they're reading the same, the lithium is much closer to the end of its life. The 3V lithiums are the same way, as are 3.7V Li-ions. A CR123A will read 3.3V when new, and a 3V or lower(even though it's a "3V" battery) resting voltage means it's time to swap batteries. 3.7V li-ions charge up to as high as 4.35V and won't actually read 3.7V until they're completely dead. The replies from "uninformed consumers" in this thread alone show why a prudent manufacturer might not recommend, or even go as far as to discourage, "lithiums" without being more specific about the risk of using 3.7V 10440(AAA) or 14500(AA) lithium ions in a light that they could kill in a matter of seconds. Lithium ion availability/compatibility has been a source of hobbyist confusion and uncertainty(not to mention blown bulbs and fried emitters!) for many years, and surely the average person has no need or desire to keep up with that kind of crap. In this case, the bottom line is that *regulated* single cell lights designed for a 1.5V battery ALL have to use a boost circuit to meet the voltage demands of the emitter(generally 3-3.4V with the newer emitters), and NONE of them will be harmed due to the use of an equivalent lithium battery.