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Tom, if you do end up revisiting this blog, would you please post the more complex software code you had written for this project? I would love to play with the afterglow effect.

Hi Tom, I figured out how to modify the ASM and compile a new hex. I just needed Mode0 and trimmed modes 1,2 & 3 from the code. I wanted to thank you for making this project available. I am helping a friend with a prop build and needed as few components as possible. This project definitely flipped the bill. Again, much thanks!

Slow signnsw

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Stop/SlowSign

Hi José. I am using a cheap chinese ISP programmer. You will find a description in another post in this blog. The keyword is ISP.To avoid problems I would recommend building a small extra PCB for programming, with just a IC socket and all necessary pins connected to the ISP header.

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Slow signmeaning

I was hoping you could answer this without me building it first. If I use fixed resistors to set the scan type and speed will the circuit remember it after the power is removed and then re-powered?

Bob, thanks for your feed-back. Nice idea to use the switch in the way you did!Changing the brightness is of course possible. There are a few options. In hardware the first idea that comes to my mind is to manipulate the operating voltage of the circuit. It might be possible to use the pot for this. But this has limits, because the controller needs a minimum operating voltage. On the plus side, this could be done in hardware only.Alternatively, you could use a different software - PWM is the magic word.I actually have written a more complex software for this circuit. It uses higher frequencies to scan through the LEDs. At some point the human eye gets to slow to see any 'movement' or flickering. So you can create the impression that several (or all) LEDs are active simultaneously. You can then change their brightness by changing how long they are active during each cycle.I used this scheme to create an 'afterglow' effect. But with a few modifications it would be possible to use the pot to change the general brightness of the circuit. I neglected this blog recently, but maybe I will find the time this weekend to publish something.

Slow signtraffic

Hi Tom I love this project! But I was wondering where the blue wires and the green wires and the pot and everything is all connected on the back? If you could answer back and maybe post pictures to show.. Thanks! Great work!

Hi! I'm a beginner programmer and this is awsome!!! What is the better to program this IC? Is there any kind of special interface? Thanks....

Slow signqld

Hi, yours seems to use the least parts from what I have researched online. Thank you for sharing. I have built my project on a bread board but none of the LEDS light. Each PB# only measures 0.6 v and it seems the LEDs need about 1.5v to illuminate. I'm stuck.

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Stopsign

stop/slowsignnear me

Charlie, can this be modified to have three Leds chase up and repeat? First led at 30%, second at 60% and third at 100% chasing from left to right and then repeat over and over?

Ugh - Im still working on this project - I am having issues with the AATiny13v chip and controlling it from my arduino uno. What did you use to program yours?

I've built and tried this circuit - it works great! I reduced the l.e.d.s to 10 (as that was all I had of one colour) by taking the outside 2 out of the circuit, without any adverse effects on the functions. Also, my pot had a push momentary switch built in, so I used this to touch pin 3 of the ATtiny13 down to ground. This jumps the circuit to the next function, rather than having to adjust the pot to do it. Now I'm going to set the speed with a fixed value resistor and try to use the pot to control brightness rather than speed. Any ideas Tom?

Is this the same microcontroller you used?http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATtiny13V-10PU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvqv2n3s2xjsVIKSdqlAUq6ADzNlKUJ%2fFE%3dalso - can you link us to what kind of socket? You did a terrific job on this - I cant wait to start mine. Thanks~! - Mike

1 sec....... Looks like I have an attiny13a. I wonder if that makes the difference. The pinpoints are the same but perhaps the output voltages are different.

Hey Tom, my son and I are fairly failure with arduino and coding. We are currently using an UNO. We downloaded your code, Charlieplex Knightrider, and when we run it, its looking for TN13DEF.INC. I've gone out on the NET and downloaded this code and got it in my Library. This is where we get stuck. Any suggestions? Thanks.Jim & Jarod.

Stopslow signbunnings

Jeffrey, essentially it uses a so called microcontroller, which is more or less a little computer. Also, the wiring is relatively complicated, so this isn't really an ideal beginner's project.Try googling "ne555 4017", this will find you a suitable project.

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Hi Tom. I would like to ask you, how I can make it remember last mode after switch on. Or it will begin to work from Larson Scanner mode.Best Regardssantonets@email.cz

hi tommy name is tommy. i live in cape town south africa. i build the cuircet and im trying to program the attiny 13 chip using my arduino uno but when i try and load you code it seas that this file #include "tn13def.inc" cant be found. what souled i do???

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I mean like where is each wire and the pot connected on the back? I am trying to get info so I can build this. I love this project! I'm a big knight rider fan

do you have to use a computer or something to program it or is it like an ic timer circuit that controls it?? im trying to build a simple strobe controller. I dont want to spend hundreds on a set of emergancy strobe lights as i plow in the winder and i am out fitting my truck with led lights amber in color and need a strobe contorler and seeings how i am handy with a soldering gun i would like to try to build one with my 4 year old lil guy. id love to teach him how to do things like this. please any help would be great. please feel free to e-mail me @ jroberts.ashford13@outlook.comthanks in advance Jeffrey Roberts