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Yes and no. Most standard interior and exterior doors will have the same rough opening width, but some manufacturers differ in the height between the two. It’s always best to verify the recommended RO from the manufacturer.
Step in the doorway with your back to the hinges. You will be standing sideways in the opening, looking at the opening where the door latches. If the door and hinges are on the left side, it is a left-hand door. If the door and hinges are on the right side, it is a right-hand door.
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For a normal double door without an astragal, the rough opening is normally 2 times the actual door width, plus 2 inches.
Another way: Always picture this from the inside, or the room the door swings into. Looking and facing the door, if the door-knob is on the left side of the door, it is a left-handed door. If the knob is on the right, it would be a right-handed door.
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What’s the easiest way to determine the swing or hand of a door? Here are a couple of options. You can decide what’s easier for you to remember.
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So, if you have a bedroom door that is 30″ wide (which is considered a 2/6 or 2′-6″ door) just add 2″ to the width and frame it 32″ wide. The height is 80″ (which is considered 6/8 or 6′-8″) add 2-1/2″ to the actual door height and frame it 82-1/2″ high.
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1. Room to adjust the door and the frame in the opening. Wall framing is called rough framing for a reason. Not all rough openings are completely plumb and square. Leaving this extra space allows you to perfectly plumb, level and square your door installation.
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You should add 2-1/2″ to the height of the actual door. This will give you room to space the door frame off of the sub-floor. Now all you need to know is how to properly frame your door rough opening.
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For standard interior doors, most manufacturers will require the same RO size. However, for sliders, french, and atrium doors, the rough opening size will vary.
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2. Next, not all doors are exactly the same size. The sizes of the door will vary by manufacturer. Normally this isn’t much, but if your rough opening was tight, or exactly the size of the door and the jamb, you may not get the door to function properly without having room to adjust.
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If the vertical plane of the wall is mostly plumb and the door fits in the hole, you still may be able to use the brackets. Just be sure to use the single arrow markings on the brackets for screw placement, as it places the screws closest to the outermost part of the wall. The outermost part of the wall is where the drywall is installed, so you will be able to cut notches in the drywall to make room for the screw heads.
If you are going to carpet the floor, shim the door jambs off the floor about 3/8″. This will allow carpet to be tucked under the jambs and usually leaves enough clearance so the door doesn’t rub on the carpet.
Another advantage would be, if your floor isn’t level, it will allow you to adjust your latch side up or down independently of the hinge side.